Monday, April 9, 2012

Wet Felting Tutorial


Wet felting is a method used to make a dense fabric (felt) from animal hair.  Some animal hair - or fleece - works better than others.  Fleece from Merino and Corriedale sheep felts very well, as does alpaca fleece.  Plant fibers don't felt and neither does any animal fleece that has been made be be "superwash."  Trust me on that last one!  I accidentally grabbed my bag of superwash Merino and was not happy to see the piece I worked so hard on all fluffed out and unfelted when it dried.  Human hair makes an interesting felt, too.  Animal hair has scales that open up when you get them wet and soapy.  Agitating makes them grab onto each other causing all the strands to stick permanently together.  Depending on what fleece you use, what colors you add, and any type of post-felting impressions you make you can get very a interesting, one of a kind fabric!

Materials:
*animal fleece - also called "roving."  This can be bought at weaving stores, many yarn stores, Dharma, some craft stores, and from many different on-line sources.
*plastic shelf liner
*athletic shirt fabric - the kind from man-made fiber that is mesh-like
*small piece of thin PVC pipe or some other small diameter cylinder
*diluted dishwashing soap - it's nice to have this in a squeeze bottle.  I dilute mine about 1 part soap to 3 parts water
*a plastic store bag
*towel

1.  On a waterproof or plastic covered surface, lay a towel and put a piece of shelf liner (about 2 feet) on top.


2.  Roving usually comes in long, thick strands.  Take one end, put your right hand down firmly on it and pull with your left hand until a piece (usually about 6 inches or so depending on the fleece type) comes off.


3.  Continue until you have about 4 pieces.  Make another row to the left, overlapping the ends of the fleece slightly.  This will make a rough square shape where all the fleece lays horizontally across the shelf liner.


4.  Add a second layer by starting at the top of the square and pulling the fibers down so that this layer is perpendicular to the first layer.


5.  Your square now looks something like this.  Notice that the fibers lay vertically down the shelf liner.


6.  You can make felt with two layers, however I think it's easier to learn the process with thicker felt.  Add a third layer - this time you back to the direction you laid the first layer down in.  Start at the right side and pull across.  These fibers will be perpendicular to the fibers in the second lay and will lay horizontally across the shelf liner.


7.  Layer the athletic shirt fabric on top of your square of roving.  I like to cut my fabric in two pieces and overlap it slightly in the middle of the roving.  This will make it easier to take the fabric off after your first round of agitation.


8.  Pour hot water in the center of your roving and add a good sized squirt of watered down dish soap.


9.  Scrunch up the plastic store bag and begin pressing down in the middle of your square while rubbing the bag in a circle.  Gradually increase the pressure until you are rubbing quite hard - still in a circle.  Expand the circle out a bit.


10.  Your roving will now look something like this - fluffy with a flat dent in the middle.


11.  Add more water and soap to another section of your square and work it like you did above.  Keep doing this until all of your square is flat and compacted.  If you find you're rubbing and rubbing on one area, but it's not compressing down you probably need to add more water and a little more soap.  When everything's flat, spend about a minute of hard circular rubbing.


12.  Gently peel off the athletic shirt fabric - this is where it's easier to start peeling from the center than it is from an edge and why I cut my fabric in half.  If you notice you have a lot (not a few) of wispy pieces of roving still loose, use the scrunched up plastic bag and rub it around in a circle until the loose pieces are down firmly.


13.  Your piece should look something like this ...


14.  Gently lift your piece from the shelf liner and turn it over.


15.  Put the athletic shirt fabric back on, add a bit more hot water and a bit more soap and vigorously rub (in a circular motion) this side of your fabric for a couple of minutes.


16.  Place your piece of PVC pipe at the top of the shelf liner and roll everything (not the towel, though!) up snuggly.


17.  Press down on the pipe as hard as you can and roll everything back and forth quickly.  Count to 100.  Did I mention that this is a good upper body workout?!


18.  Unroll, carefully pick up your piece, and ...


... rotate the piece 1/4 turn to the right (90 degrees).


Roll everything back up and repeat the rolling and counting to 100 process.  Unroll, turn your fabric 1/4 turn to the right again.  Roll back up and repeat the rolling.  Unroll, turn your fabric 1/4 turn to the right again.  Roll up and repeat the rolling one more time.

19.  Take your felt over to the sink and run it under hot water.  You can add a small squirt of dish soap if you don't have many bubbles.


20.  Scrunch the felt up and squeeze and rub it for about 30 seconds.  Start gently and get more vigorous.


21.  Open up your felt and flatten it in the bottom of the sink.  Repeat this process about 5 or 6 times until your felt feels firm and thickened and it has shrunk quite a bit - dip it under the hot water each time, but you shouldn't need any more soap.


22.  Rinse all the soap out, flatten (see how much smaller it is!), and set aside to dry.


You can use your felt as is or if you want a really tight, thicker piece you can put it through the washing machine with a pair of light colored jeans.  I did that to the felt on the left.


There's a lot of experimenting you can do with wet felting - you can add colored roving or bits of yarn to the top of your very first fluffy square before you put on the athletic shirt fabric ...


you can make impressions in your felt when it is wet ...



I layered this felt between two pieces of bubble wrap and used a rolling pin to press in the bubble shapes.

Experiment with different numbers of roving layers, layering dark and white fleece, .... the possibilities are endless!  I'll keep you updated on what I do with my pieces.

Happy Creating!  Deborah

Friday, April 6, 2012

Friday Inspiration - Wet Felting

I've been working on wet felting small sheets of roving for a fiber piece I'm making and am seeing a lot of good things ahead!  While the pieces I need are just plain wool, there are endless possibilities for adding threads and other additions.  To give you an idea of what fiber artists are doing with this medium, I found three inspiring pieces.



Scottish artist Pauline Hann creates garments using hand felted fabric.  This jacket is a good example of the great texture and color combinations one can get.  I know I've had less than satisfactory experiences with commercial felt lately, but that aside you have to admit that this felt has so much more character!


If you want to see the possibilities for creative clothing/hats available when you make your own felt, spend awhile looking at the work of Elynn Bernstein.  She has a great way of layering her pieces to create a nice feeling of depth - and a wonderful sense of color.  I've been looking at felt more as a fabric (as opposed to a craft material) and Elynn's work inspires me!



Wendy Freebourne's felted fabric isn't usually transformed into garments, however the texture and movement in her work is wonderful.  I like the way the threads extend off the felt - it feels like the piece's boundaries are extended also.  And again I love her use of color!

Come back on Monday for a tutorial on how to wet felt small pieces - a beginning step towards these inspiring pieces.

Happy Creating!  Deborah 


Wednesday, April 4, 2012

Wednesday Sewing - Recycled Denim Wallet


This post is a good news, bad news type of post!  The good news is I came up with an interesting wallet to make from part of an old pair of jeans.  The bad news ... I made a felt wallet in September 2010 that I wrote a post about here.  At the time, I'd been using EcoFelt (made from recycled plastic and the type of felt you get at quite a few craft/sewing stores) for different projects, but none that took a lot of wear.  After about half a year of being in my purse it looked a little worse for the wear.  Now, it looks a LOT worse!  It looks like paying extra for wool felt might be best for items that are used a lot. 


Today I finally had to get rid of it and come up with something new.  I love to use old denim jeans in new sewing projects - this one is pretty quick and easy.

Materials:
*About 13 inches of the leg from a pair of denim jeans
*2 zippers
*a large button

1. Cut 13 1/2 inches from the bottom of one of the legs of a pair of jeans.



2.  Sew along the top and the bottom.  I used my zipper foot on the bottom.


3.  Draw chalk lines 4, 5, and 9 inches from the bottom of the leg.


4.  Cut the top and bottom lines open from seam to seam.


5.  Take one of the zippers and trim to fit in the top slit.  Sew a new stop at the bottom of the zipper.


6.  Pin zipper inside the slit opening.  You can pin through both layers of jeans.


7.  With a full 6 strands of either coordinating or colored embroidery floss, sew zipper in using a blanket stitch.  Be sure you only sew through one layer of jeans.  Repeat with other slit opening.


8.  Sew along the middle chalk line and then resew over it. 


9.  Sew a button hole at the cut edge of the jeans leg and a button at the hem side.


10.  Fold up and button.


Happy Creating!  Deborah

Monday, April 2, 2012

Monday Project - Crocheted Easter Bunny Set


There's just something about a bunny in a basket!  I found this great pattern for a little crocheted bunny on Ravelry and decided to make one for little c.  Then he looked so bare, I added a granny square blanket, two carrots (bunnies get hungry!), and a sleeping basket.  And if I can give him up, he's ready to be mailed tomorrow!


The bunny pattern is from Stormy'z Crochet and is available free on Ravelry here.  It went together real quickly.  I used Knit Pick's Cotlin yarn and a size E hook - this made him a little smaller than the original bunny.  I did do a few things differently - I added an extra row to each ear and made a tail (using the muzzle pattern and adding an extra row) I stuffed and sewed onto the rear.  And I embroidered the eyes rather than using locking eyes.


For the granny square blanket, I used  Knit Pick's Cotlin and an F hook.

1.  Chain 4 and join with slip stitch to form a ring.  Chain 3 (counts as first dc) and make 4 dc in ring.  Chain 3, 5 dc in ring, chain 3, 5 de in ring, chain 3 5 dc in ring, chain 3 and join to top of first dc.  Fasten off.

2.  Switch colors.  Join new yarn in a chain 2 space.  Chain 5 (counts as first dc and a chain 2 space), dc in chain 2 space.  Dc across to the next chain 2 space.  In the chain 2 space, dc, chain 2, dc.  Continue in this pattern around the square.  Join with slip stitch to top of first dc.  Fasten off.

3.  Switch colors.  Repeat Row 2.

4.  Switch colors.  Join new yarn in a chain 2 space.  Chain 2 (counts as first dc), dc, chain 2, 2dc all in chain 2 space.  Dc across to the next chain 2 space.  In the chain 2 space, 2dc, chain 2, 2dc.  Continue in this pattern around the square.  Join with a slip stitch to top of first dc.  Fasten off.

5.  Switch colors.  Repeat Row 4.

6.  Join edging yarn to the first dc in one of the chain 2 spaces.  In that dc, make 1 sc, 1 dc, 1sc.  In next dc make 1 sc.  Repeat around the square, treating each chain 2 space as a dc.  Join with slip stitch to first stitch and fasten off.
 


Carrots - I used Knit Pick's Cotlin and a size B hook.

1.  Chain 2, put 4 sc in second chain from hook.  Don't join the yarn to the first stitch - just keep going in a spiral.

2.  Put 2 sc in each of the first 4 sc (8 total).

3.  Rows 3 - 10:  one sc in each sc.  Fasten off, leaving enough yarn to sew carrot shut.

4.  Stuff with fiberfill and sew shut.

5.  Join green yarn at one end of the carrot top.  Chain 12.  2 sc in second chain from hook.  2 sc in each of the remaining chains.  Sc in carrot top where you joined the yarn (to hook it in).  


6.  Sc on carrot top next to first frond.  Chain 12 and repeat above instructions to form second frond.


7.  Sc into carrot top on end and repeat above instructions to make the third frond.


Basket - I used Knit Pick's Cotlin again and a size B hook.

1.  Chain 2.  Put 6 sc in second chain from hook.  Don't join rows - just keep working in a spiral.  I found a stitch marker helps keep track of when each row is finished.

2.  Put 2 sc in each of the previous 6 sc.

3.  1 sc, 2 sc in next stitch, ... repeat to end of row.

4.  2 sc, 2  sc in next stitch ... repeat to end of row.

5.  3 sc, 2 sc in next stitch ... repeat to end of row.

6.  4 sc, 2 sc in next stitch ... repeat to end of row.

7.  5 sc, 2 sc in next stitch ... repeat to end of row.

8.  6 sc, 2 sc in next stitch ... repeat to end of row.

9.  7 sc, 2 sc in next stitch ... repeat to end of row.

10.  8 sc, 2 sc in next stitch ... repeat to end of row.1

11.  9 sc, 2 sc in next stitch ... repeat to end of row.

12.  10 sc, 2 sc in next stitch ... repeat to end of row.

13.  11 sc, 2 sc in next stitch ... repeat to end of row.

14.  12 sc, 2 sc in next stitch ... repeat to end of row.

15.  13 sc, 2 sc in next stitch ... repeat to end of row.

16.  Working in the back loop only of stitches, 13 sc, 1 decrease ... repeat to end of row.

17 - 20.  Go back to working in both loops of stitches.  1 sc in each stitch. 

21 - 23.  Switch colors - 1 sc in each stitch.

24.  Switch colors - 1 dc in each stitch.

25 - 27.  Switch colors - 1 sc in each stitch.

28 -29.  Switch back to first color.  1 sc in each stitch.

30.  Sc in each of the first 13 stitches, chain 20, skip next 15 stitches, sc in each of the next 26 stitches, chain 20, skip next 15 stitches, sc in each of the remaining stitches.

31 - 33.  1 sc in each stitch.  Fasten off.


And here's the bunny, getting his sleep before Easter!


Happy Creating!  Deborah